How to Improve Access to Dead Kitchen Cabinet Space

How could this happen? Who did this? The cabinet in my kitchen with the tiniest opening—a mere 7.5 inches wide—was the cabinet that had the largest amount of storage space inside of it. I’d like to speak with the person who designed my kitchen.

This post is the second in a series on how I’m improving my small, non-functional kitchen on a budget. Since I can’t afford a complete kitchen overhaul, I’m keeping the majority of my lower cabinets, but the runt of the litter recently underwent a little surgery, and that’s what this post is about. More specifically, I’m sharing how I made access easier to the large, dead-space corner cabinet in my kitchen.

Here’s what I started with. The cabinets are actually sturdy and in good shape so I’m keeping as many as is practical. They’re just not functional and not all that attractive. The 80’s are alive and well in my cabinets.

How to Improve Access to Dead Kitchen Cabinet Space/HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

You can see how much space is inside this cabinet, but the opening is so tiny that it’s difficult to fit anything in it. I had a mountain of stuff piled in there.

 How to Improve Access to Dead Kitchen Cabinet Space/HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

I wanted to cut out part of the board to the left of the opening to make it bigger, but I knew it would be impossible to make a nice cut with a jig saw–especially in oak. And my original plan was to then install a stationary shelf to put a basket on, and leave the cabinet open.

So I consulted my super-smart carpenter brother, Mike about my dilemma. He suggested removing that board entirely, cutting it down to a smaller size, and then replacing it with the factory cut edge showing.

You can see here that it’s a separate piece.

 How to Improve Access to Dead Kitchen Cabinet Space/HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

Here’s what the piece looked like from the inside of the cabinet.

 How to Improve Access to Dead Kitchen Cabinet Space/HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

He told me in order to remove the board, I’d have to hit it like a carpenter, not a painter (I just happen to be a painter). He said I’d have to hit it hard. Real hard. So I prepared myself for battle.

First I carefully removed the stile with a jig saw.

 How to Improve Access to Dead Kitchen Cabinet Space/HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

Next I took a 2 x 4, put it against the cabinet and took a mighty swing. The hammer bounced off that board like a soccer ball, and I laughed so hard I nearly passed out. I tried again and again…and again. Honestly, my brother had way too much faith in me on this one.

So I carefully took my jig saw, and cut as far as I could along the top and bottom of the board. I couldn’t cut through the entire length of the board because my stove was in the way of the saw. After cutting as far as I could, I decided enough was enough, and gave that board a Ninja kick that I’m confident would have impressed Jackie Chan.

 How to Improve Access to Dead Kitchen Cabinet Space/HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

Finally!

 How to Improve Access to Dead Kitchen Cabinet Space/HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

I cut out the remaining dowel rods that held the piece in place, and sanded them smooth.

How to Improve Access to Dead Kitchen Cabinet Space/HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

I decided to replace the board from hell with the smallest board that I could, but being sure to leave enough clearance around the oven door for pull-out shelves. I changed my mind about the stationary shelf. A woman’s prerogative.

So I used a 1 x 3 in the space.

 How to Improve Access to Dead Kitchen Cabinet Space/HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

 How to Improve Access to Dead Kitchen Cabinet Space/HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

This was my first opportunity to use my new Kregg Jig K5 for drilling the pocket holes in the 1 x 3. Now if I decide to change the cabinet again someday, all I have to do is unscrew the piece instead of risking a fractured foot.

 How to Improve Access to Dead Kitchen Cabinet Space/HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

Here’s the piece installed. I planned to paint my cabinets white, so I didn’t have to worry about wood types matching. I’ll be filling the grain on the oak before I paint so they’ll look the same after painting.

 How to Improve Access to Dead Kitchen Cabinet Space/HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

Here’s a side view looking through the stove handle showing proper clearance for the pull outs.

 How to Improve Access to Dead Kitchen Cabinet Space/HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

I whipped up this simple shelf for the inside of the cabinet. It’ll be tucked in to the left of the opening, and will sit beside the pull-out shelves.

 How to Improve Access to Dead Kitchen Cabinet Space/HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

 How to Improve Access to Dead Kitchen Cabinet Space/HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

Fast forwarding here, I built a simple box for the first pull out drawer. I used the hardware from the original drawer and scrap wood I had on hand.

How to Improve Access to Dead Kitchen Cabinet Space/HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

I tried the first one out before making the second one. It was a good thing, as the first one didn’t fit the opening and I had to disassemble it and make it smaller. Ugh. Here’s drawer number two. There was a pull out drawer in this cabinet originally, so I was also able to use the hardware from that one too. I just had to build a new  drawer the right size for the opening.

 How to Improve Access to Dead Kitchen Cabinet Space/HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

Since the hardware for the pullouts wasn’t white, I had to spray paint it so it would blend in better. The photo is of the drawer upside down.

 How to Improve Access to Dead Kitchen Cabinet Space/HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

How to Improve Access to Dead Kitchen Cabinet Space/HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

 How to Improve Access to Dead Kitchen Cabinet Space/HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

I had this dentil molding leftover from an old project, and had just enough to use as decorative face plates for the pull outs.

 How to Improve Access to Dead Kitchen Cabinet Space/HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

 How to Improve Access to Dead Kitchen Cabinet Space/HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

For your amusement, here’s an ugly picture of the cabinets after I filled the grain prior to painting.

 How to Improve Access to Dead Kitchen Cabinet Space/HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

Now it’s starting to look like something!

Here’s the much more functional cabinet. It’s not any bigger than it was before, but with the added shelf unit inside, the larger opening and the pull out drawers, it just makes life easier.

 How to Improve Access to Dead Kitchen Cabinet Space/HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

 How to Improve Access to Dead Kitchen Cabinet Space/HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

 How to Improve Access to Dead Kitchen Cabinet Space/HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

Here are some before and after photos.

How to Improve Access to Dead Kitchen Cabinet Space/HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

 How to Improve Access to Dead Kitchen Cabinet Space/HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

In case you missed the original peninsula re-do which was the start of this makeover, here are before and afters of that too. (See peninsula tutorial here.)

 photo IMG_6775.jpg How to Improve Access to Dead Kitchen Cabinet Space/HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

I’ve got many steps left on this makeover—making a wooden counter top and cutting down another one until I can afford new ones, building open shelving, replacing the current 30″upper cabinets with taller 42″ ones, adding trim and hardware, having a few doors drilled for hidden hinges and more. Baby steps.

This post was written by Tracy Evans who is a Journeyman Painter and Certified Home Stager /Redesigner. Feel free to visit her website at www.HelpAtHomeStaging.com to view more before and after pictures of her projects. And if you enjoy gardening, you may want to visit her gardening blog at MyUrbanGardenOasis.

Add Character to a Kitchen Island/Peninsula-DIY

Want to get rid of that builder grade faux wood paneling on your kitchen island or peninsula? You know the stuff. It resembles those wood panels that used to be on the sides of station wagons. I’ve had it in every kitchen I’ve owned. But I’ve learned that I don’t have to live with it. And neither do you.

This peninsula update is the first step of many to come in a mini DIY remodel that I’m about to undertake in my small, non-functional kitchen. I’ve had smaller kitchens, but my current kitchen, hands down, wins the award for the least functional. It also ranks right up there with the least aesthetically pleasing.

So here are my before pictures. Pretty standard as far as peninsulas go. This kitchen is one big ball of patterned brown. I love brown, but there are brown patterns that fight each other in the oak grain, the flooring and the countertops. Makes me dizzy. This kitchen is not a safe place for anyone who is prone to seizures—that’s for sure.

 Add Character to a Kitchen Island/Peninsula-HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

 Add Character to a Kitchen Island/Peninsula-HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

I’ve been collecting posts on Pinterest for kitchen ideas, and to give credit where credit is due, I copied this design from “Remodelaholic”. And I combined her project with a photo I saw on “DIY Network”. This transformation can be done with basic carpentry skills, and isn’t all that expensive.

Step one was to remove the corner trim piece so I could pry back the existing paneling and locate the studs, water lines and electrical wires. My dishwasher is in my peninsula, so I was aware that the potential existed for an electrical shock or a flash flood if my nail hit just the right spot.

 Add Character to a Kitchen Island/Peninsula-HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

Unfortunately the installer for my new dishwasher had to remove some studs in order to get it to fit into the space where the old one was. That leaves me with only a few studs to attach my boards to. I knew that was going to be my biggest challenge. However, I was relieved to find no water lines running through the studs like I had in my last house, and there were only two electrical wires that were going to be relatively easy to avoid. Here’s one of them.

 Add Character to a Kitchen Island/Peninsula-HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

So I marked my stud locations on my counter top with some tape, and I taped another area to mark a board from the back of a cabinet that I could use to nail into. And of course, there will always be a 2 x 4 on the floor, on the outside corners and against the wall that were used in framing.

 Add Character to a Kitchen Island/Peninsula-HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

I had to remove a piece of baseboard on the wall adjacent to the peninsula since it was going to have to be trimmed down afterwards.

 Add Character to a Kitchen Island/Peninsula-HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

The only other out-of-the-ordinary item I had to deal with, was an electrical outlet that I had to move up about 1/2″.

 Add Character to a Kitchen Island/Peninsula-HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

I decided to use bead board paneling for this project, and Lowe’s had a new kind that looked like traditional bead board on steroids. The routed groves were much larger and farther apart. A  4′ x 8′ sheet of traditional bead board paneling ran around $20. The more unique version that I decided to use was $30 a sheet. The extra $10 was worth it to me.

Lowe’s will cut plywood for their customers, and so will Home Depot. Not only does it save me the hassle of cutting it, but a 4′ x 8′ sheet won’t fit in my tin can of a car. I had them make me four panels which required four cuts. The first two cuts were free, and the second two cost me 25 cents. Again, worth it. I also had a large scrap piece leftover to use on another project.

I had the panels cut to a size that was 1/4″ shorter than the actual height of my counter tops so that I could mount them off the floor a bit. Dishwasher + leak = potential water on the floor at some point. Cutting it short also allowed for any wonkiness as far as the possibility of the sheets not being cut perfectly square (sorry Lowe’s) or my floors/counters etc…not being square (sorry house).

So I attached the bead board to the peninsula, setting it on a ruler to raise it while I hammered. I’m happy to report I only hit my thumb once, but I’ll admit I did bend a handful of nails that had to go in the garbage. I also broke two drill bits while pre-drilling. Like I said, I’m not a carpenter. I also used a level to make sure each sheet was plumb.

Add Character to a Kitchen Island/Peninsula-HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

Here’s a photo after the bead board was attached. Since I didn’t have much of a selection of studs to hammer into, some of the pieces only had one nail on top and one on the bottom, but I knew when I added the trim, some of those nails would also be penetrating the bead board to hold it on too. The trim itself would also help secure it.

 Add Character to a Kitchen Island/Peninsula-HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

I had to trim around the outlet, and I also had to shave down part of the toe kick that extended past the end of the cabinet in order for the bead board to lay flat against the cabinet.

 Add Character to a Kitchen Island/Peninsula-HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

 Add Character to a Kitchen Island/Peninsula-HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

Next, I added 1 x 4 pieces of MDF that I cut down from a leftover sheet I already had, and attached those. I also kept those up off the floor. MDF and water do not mix.When MDF gets wet, it puffs up like a toasted marshmallow.

Add Character to a Kitchen Island/Peninsula-HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

Next came the horizontal pieces. I had to cut a hole in the trim piece that went around the outlet.

 Add Character to a Kitchen Island/Peninsula-HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

Add Character to a Kitchen Island/Peninsula-HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

Here’s how it looked with the horizontal pieces added.

Add Character to a Kitchen Island/Peninsula-HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

The bottom board is a 1 x 8, so that once I put the baseboard on, there will be a reveal equal to the rest of the 1 x 4 trim.

The next step was to install the remaining vertical boards. These will cover the areas where the sections of bead board paneling meet.

Add Character to a Kitchen Island/Peninsula-HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

The previous photo shows that my vertical board placement didn’t line up with any studs (marked by the blue tape on the counter top). In order to attach these two pieces, I just pre-drilled at an angle so my nails would go into the horizontal pieces that were nailed into studs. This is where I managed to snap my last 1/16 bit. Sigh.

Add Character to a Kitchen Island/Peninsula-HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

A suggestion from the “Remodeloholic” post, was to round over the edges of the trim boards, so that once installed, there is an intentional space where the trim boards meet. That way, there’s no need to caulk or putty those areas.

 Add Character to a Kitchen Island/Peninsula-HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

 Add Character to a Kitchen Island/Peninsula-HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

Here all of the trim pieces were installed.

 Add Character to a Kitchen Island/Peninsula-HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

Next came the baseboard. The baseboard is the only piece placed directly on the floor to cover the gaps from the bead board, the corner trim and the 1 x 8’s. It would be simple enough to replace if it were to get wet.

Add Character to a Kitchen Island/Peninsula-HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

 Add Character to a Kitchen Island/Peninsula-HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

In order to keep costs down on my projects, I usually buy “lesser” quality pine boards and then spackle over any knots or dings at the same time I putty all my nail holes. I sand and paint, and the imperfections are impossible to find afterwards.

 Add Character to a Kitchen Island/Peninsula-HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

 Add Character to a Kitchen Island/Peninsula-HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

Next a coat of primer.

 Add Character to a Kitchen Island/Peninsula-HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

After the primer dried, I caulked every place that the trim met the bead board, and along the top of the baseboard. This is an important step, and makes everything professional looking.

 Add Character to a Kitchen Island/Peninsula-HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

 Add Character to a Kitchen Island/Peninsula-HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

Then I painted everything with two coats of paint, sanding in between coats. Finished!

Add Character to a Kitchen Island/Peninsula-HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

Add Character to a Kitchen Island/Peninsula-HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

Now the traditional before and afters.
 Add Character to a Kitchen Island/Peninsula-HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

Add Character to a Kitchen Island/Peninsula-HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

 Add Character to a Kitchen Island/Peninsula-HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

Add Character to a Kitchen Island/Peninsula-HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

Since I had some of the pine boards and MDF already, I don’t know exactly what this project cost, but I would approximate not more than $50, with $30 of that being for the bead board.

A cheaper version would be to leave out the bead board and mount the trim directly onto the existing faux wood paneling. Give the paneling a light sand, a good primer and a good quality paint and you’re on your way. I’ve done that too!

Honestly, the worst part of this project was the major splinter I got in my hand when picking out the wood. It was all smooth sailing after that.

Author’s edit: And here she is after surviving nearly two weeks in the palm of my hand. My daughter, Sophie, was my splinter remover, but she moved to Los Angels. Now I’m on my own in the foreign object removal department. (Thus the two week hibernation period.)

 photo IMG_68361.jpg

Now on to another cabinet…

This post was written by Tracy Evans who is a Journeyman Painter and Certified Home Stager /Redesigner. Feel free to visit her website at www.HelpAtHomeStaging.com to view more before and after pictures of her projects. And if you enjoy gardening, you may want to visit her gardening blog at MyUrbanGardenOasis.

Add Trim to Builder-Grade 42″ Kitchen Cabinets–Crown Substitute

If you’re looking for a way to add interest to builder-grade cabinets, here’s an easy and inexpensive upgrade.

I happen to have those run-of-the-mill, builder-grade, ho-hum oak kitchen cabinets that everyone on the planet seems to have. I painted them white and added bead board wallpaper to the insets a few years ago (See previous post “Yes You Can Paint Your Oak Kitchen Cabinets“). I loved the transformation, but always wished I had crown molding on my upper cabinets.

The problem was, my 42” cabinets butted up against the ceiling so there was no room for crown. However, my combination OCD, tunnel vision and I-will-have-crown-if-it-kills-me attitude were not to be defeated. I made the decision that I was going to add some type of trim somewhere to catapult my cabinets out of Dullsville. I went on a search for trim, knowing I didn’t want to use the standard quarter round. Here’s the winning trim from Home Depot.

 Add Trim to Builder-Grade Kitchen Cabinets / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

Here are before and after pictures of the bottom of one of the cabinets without trim, and after trim was added. I didn’t think I’d be able to find trim small enough to fit in the area below the cabinet doors without it looking too small and chintzy, but this was perfect.

 Add Trim to Builder-Grade Kitchen Cabinets / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

 Add Trim to Builder-Grade Kitchen Cabinets / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

I sandwiched a piece of screen molding as a spacer, in between the new trim piece and the side of the cabinet. Otherwise there would have been a gap because the cabinet corners protrude past the flat side of the cabinet. You can see it in this photo.

Add Trim to Builder-Grade Kitchen Cabinets / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

 Add Trim to Builder-Grade Kitchen Cabinets / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

I then flipped the trim upside down, and installed it at the top of the upper cabinets against the ceiling. Again, the space for decorative trim was pretty small, but it fit nicely. It’s not crown molding, but it added a decorative touch, and covered the ugly crack where the cabinet met the ceiling. I caulked around all the trim and painted…again.

 Add Trim to Builder-Grade Kitchen Cabinets / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

To make the project easier, I primed the trim and put one coat of paint on it prior to installation. After I installed the trim, I puttied my nail holes, caulked and put a final coat on the trim.

The trim for this project was only $15. I needed basic tools, including an inexpensive miter box, hammer, trim nails and a caulk gun. This project shows that a tiny piece of decorative trim can go a long way to adding some much-needed charm to boring cabinets. Your turn!

This post was written by Tracy Evans who is a Certified Home Stager, Certified Redesigner and Journeyman Painter servicing the Central Illinois area. Feel free to visit her website at www.HelpAtHomeStaging.com to view her portfolio for more before and after pictures of her projects. And if you enjoy gardening, you may want to visit her gardening blog at MyUrbanGardenOasis.

DIY Rolling Pantry Tucks Into Space by Fridge

Do you have an empty space in your kitchen next to your refrigerator? If you do, and want to make good use of that space, you might want to add this rolling pantry to your honey-do list.

DIY Rolling Pantry / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

I wish I could take credit for this idea, but I can’t. I saw it on a Facebook post, and decided to construct one, only with a couple of tweaks to make it work better for my situation. Here’s the original post—http://www.instructables.com/id/Hidden-Fridge-Gap-Slide-Out-Pantry/.

I agonized over measurements for about half a day before deciding to build the pantry one inch smaller than the width of the space. This allowed for a decent amount of wiggle room when wheeling it in and out.

I purchased MDF (medium density fiberboard) from Home Depot, which is my all-time favorite construction material. It’s amazingly smooth, doesn’t splinter or have distracting knots, and it paints beautifully. The only con I’m aware of is that it can’t be exposed to water, so it can only be used on interior projects.

I bought a 3/4″ thick, 4′ x 8′ sheet of MDF, and Home Depot cut it down into seven boards, all at a length of 5’4″ by 6 3/4″. I originally wanted the pieces cut at seven inches, but I went with 6 3/4″ instead so I could get an extra board out of the sheet. I allowed 1/8 inch loss of material for each cut made, as that is the saw blade thickness.

I used two of the 5’4″ pieces for the sides of my unit, and cut the rest of the boards at home for the individual shelves, and the top and bottom pieces. I had a nice sized piece left over for another project too. Hernia alert!! MDF is very heavy. If you plan to purchase a sheet of it to cut at home, be sure to have help carrying it! Here are my cut pieces.

DIY Rolling Pantry / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

I constructed the rolling pantry as you would construct any bookcase, and used a bead board plywood scrap that I had on hand for the back to keep it square.

DIY Rolling Pantry / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

I used several garage sale purchases that I had on hand to keep the cost down, including finish nails, the handle, the wheels and some upholstery tacks.

DIY Rolling Pantry / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

First I cut my bead board to the size I wanted my unit to be. I then constructed a box with simple butt joints to fit the size of the bead board, being sure to glue all four corner butt joints. The top and bottom pieces should be placed in between the two side pieces, rather than on top and on bottom of the two side pieces. It makes for a more sturdy piece, since gravity would be working with your nails if they’re perpendicular to the floor instead of parallel to the floor. You want your nails working against gravity whenever possible.

DIY Rolling Pantry / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

I like using upholstery tacks for attaching backing to a shelving unit because the big heads don’t allow the bead board to pull off. If finishing nails are used, the bead board can be pushed off right over the top of them. I used wood glue here too.

DIY Rolling Pantry / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

Then I decided where I wanted my shelves to be, based on what I anticipated storing on them.

DIY Rolling Pantry / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

It’s much easier to paint shelves before installation, so I put a coat of primer and a coat of finish on the shelves, and all the semi-assembled pieces.

DIY Rolling Pantry / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

After I installed the shelves, I caulked, spackled and applied the final coat of paint. Caulking the cracks makes for a much more professional-looking job as you can see here.

DIY Rolling Pantry / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

DIY Rolling Pantry / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

Here’s when I realized the importance of using the right kind of wheels. I have a bucket of miscellaneous hardware that I pulled this first set of garage sale wheels out of.

DIY Rolling Pantry / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

I tried wheeling the pantry on these wheels, and as luck (or lack thereof) would have it, they weren’t a good choice. They were made of glass or porcelain, and I’m guessing they used to be on an antique piece of furniture. They would probably have been just fine on linoleum, but they weren’t well-suited for ceramic tile since they wouldn’t grip the tile. And since they were small, they were catching in my grout lines. So back out to my junk bucket I went. I found these larger, rubber wheels, and they worked much better.

DIY Rolling Pantry / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

DIY Rolling Pantry / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

Since my garage sale wheels didn’t come with screws, I searched my garage sale screw stash and found the perfect size.

DIY Rolling Pantry / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

Here’s the finished rolling pantry. Ta-da!!

DIY Rolling Pantry / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

Going…

DIY Rolling Pantry / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

Going…

DIY Rolling Pantry / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

Gone!

DIY Rolling Pantry / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

It tucks quite nicely in my little space.

DIY Rolling Pantry / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

This magnificent contraption holds lots of kitchen stuff, and frees up my “real” pantry for my most often used items.

DIY Rolling Pantry / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

DIY Rolling Pantry / HomestagingBloomingtonIL

Toddler alert! Although I love this idea, it wouldn’t be a safe storage solution if you have toddlers who could possibly pull the unit out and tip it over. I placed my handle out of reach, and it would take a pretty strong child to pull this out of its resting place, but best to rule on the side of caution.

I had originally planned to insert wooden dowels a few inches above each shelf to keep items from falling off as was shown in the original post, but I decided it wasn’t necessary.

As far as cost goes, the MDF plywood was $27.00. The rest of the supplies were either garage sale bargains or leftovers from other projects. I got a lot of bang for my buck on this one!

For other kitchen storage ideas, visit my posts, “Creative Kitchen Storage for Pot Lids“, “How to Build a Simple Kitchen Cabinet for Open Display” and “Organize My Kitchen Pantry With What?!“.

This post was written by Tracy Evans who is a Certified Home Stager, Certified Redesigner and Journeyman Painter servicing the Central Illinois area. Feel free to visit her website at www.HelpAtHomeStaging.com to view her portfolio for more before and after pictures of her projects. And if you enjoy gardening, you may want to visit her gardening blog at MyUrbanGardenOasis.

Don’t Be Afraid of Matching Whites in a Mostly White Kitchen. Here’s How!

I recently spent hours trying to find white paint for my kitchen cabinets that would compliment my white appliances. You wouldn’t think this would be all that difficult, but I spent hours online, time on the phone and trips back and forth to different specialty paint stores picking up color samples. I finally found the perfect custom appliance paint color. There is a God.

Matching Whites in a Mostly White Kitchen / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

A few years ago, I got up the nerve to paint my builder grade oak kitchen cabinets white (See previous post, “Yes You Can Paint Your Oak Kitchen Cabinets). After many hours of work, they were done, and I was elated to have bright white beautiful cabinets. Then I got a new white dishwasher, and then a new white refrigerator and all was still well.

Unfortunately, when I got a new white microwave, my e-lation turned to de-flation. Now that I had a new white appliance installed right up against two of my cabinets at eye level, the bright white microwave morphed my beautiful cabinets into a dingy shade of yellow. Sort of reminded me of dirty, stained teeth. Yuck.

I did my best to ignore it. I paint for a living so I really did my best to ignore it. (I was feeling like the plumber with leaky pipes.) Let me be clear. My cabinets didn’t turn yellow over time, nor did I choose a creamy white paint. The paint I had was white. If I would have pulled the nice, new microwave out, they would have looked white again.

I scoured the internet for paint color solutions, as I was confident that someone, somewhere surely made a paint color designed to complement white appliances. Nope. All I could find was a barrage of disappointed people who regretted their decisions to have all-white kitchens because they ended up with cabinets that looked “off” just like mine did.

I never wanted stainless steel appliances in my kitchen because in a small galley kitchen, I believe it’s best to have everything all one color. Small spaces don’t accommodate visual color interruptions well. And white appliances will never be “out” in my opinion, just as white kitchens themselves will always be classic. I think stainless steel is beautiful, but in ten years it may be the avocado of the 70’s, and my budget isn’t going to allow for all new appliances in ten years unless I win the lottery.

I went to my “go to” specialty paint store here in my city with my stove knob in tow for a color example. They do color matching for me all the time with brought-in items. They tried, but it was a no-can-do. I went to another specialty store and got my second no-can-do. I was beginning to feel like those disappointed folks on the internet.

The third time really was a charm in this story. Here’s what Don Smith Paint Company in Bloomington, Illinois did for me. They sent me home with six different base colors of different products that they sell, on the ends of paint sticks for me to take home and put up against my appliances. That is—paint right out of the cans of their various paint lines with no colorants added.

Matching Whites in a Mostly White Kitchen / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

I picked the one closest to my appliance color, and a store employee/genius named Rick (aka-my new hero) added a smidgen of black and it was a fantastic match.

The paint is Coronado by Pratt and Lambert, and it’s a water-based Acrylic Rust Scat Enamel paint. We used the white base as opposed to the pastel base.

Matching Whites in a Mostly White Kitchen / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

Here’s the formula on the sticker, keeping in mind that this is a quart of paint, not a gallon.

Matching Whites in a Mostly White Kitchen / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL
I went from a satin that I painted my cabinets with the first time to a semi-gloss, which looks much better with the lighting that I have. Normally I’m not a fan of semi-gloss, but I really love the look of this paint. It was very quick to dry, and I can tell by the way it feels that it’s going to be durable.

I was so excited about re-painting that I forgot take a picture showing how yellow my cabinets looked after the new microwave was installed by my son, Ross and I. (Eat your heart out, Sears. You didn’t get a $150 installation fee out of me to install a $200 microwave.) But here are some after photos.

Matching Whites in a Mostly White Kitchen / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

 Matching Whites in a Mostly White Kitchen / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

Matching Whites in a Mostly White Kitchen / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

I decided while I was at it, I would remove my cabinet doors from the cabinets above the microwave. And although it doesn’t show in the photo, I installed paint-able wallpaper with a beautiful raised design inside of them. I may invest in some pretty baskets for storage, but that’s for another day.

The paint cost was $20 for a quart. I got by with a quart because I didn’t repaint the inside of the doors, or the back of a peninsula that isn’t pictured here, although there was another bank of cabinets not pictured that I did paint. And since they were already white, I only needed one coat.

Matching Kitchen Whites / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

Matching Whites in a Mostly White Kitchen / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

If you are one of those people out there who really wants an all-white kitchen, but are scared by the prospect of trying to match whites, I say go for it, now that you know what paint to use. There’s nothing more beautiful than the classic look of a crisp, white kitchen.

This post was written by Tracy Evans who is a Certified Home Stager, Certified Redesigner and Journeyman Painter servicing the Central Illinois area. Feel free to visit her website at www.HelpAtHomeStaging.com to view her portfolio for more before and after pictures of her projects. And if you enjoy gardening, you may want to visit her gardening blog at MyUrbanGardenOasis.

How to Build a Simple Kitchen Cabinet for Open Display

How to Build a Simple Kitchen Cabinet for Open Display / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

Don’t you just love those crisp, white kitchens with beautiful open shelving? I’ve been craving that look for my kitchen. And how wonderful to take dishes straight from the dishwasher, and put them in a place of honor. I’m happy to report that after finally saying farewell to the dishes I’ve had since 1980 (yikes!), I bought some simple white ones that I would love to be able to display.

But my kitchen is tiny, and although I love my fresh, white dishes, I can’t designate an entire 42″ cabinet to openly displaying them because I have lots of other not-so-beautiful stuff in with my dishes. You know the stuff I mean. I can’t seem to part with those plastic sippy cups from when my grown children were toddlers. And what about that random assortment of sentimental coffee mugs, and those all-too-ugly rusted metal baking pans stacked like the Leaning Tower of Pisa? Definitely all keepers. So, you see, I can’t just remove the doors from my current cabinets because of my meaningful junk.

But what I can do is make use of a blank corner that I’ve wanted to do something functional with ever since I relocated a cabinet that used to be there.

Today’s the day I build a “mini” version of my dream so I can have that same look, just on a smaller scale. A much smaller scale. I must confess, I’m a painter, not a carpenter. And I’m a girl! If I can do this, you can too. It’s very simple construction, and there’s really nothing to it. And if yours turns out not-so-great, you can use it in the garage for storage or give it to somebody for Christmas–someone you’re not real fond of.

I want my cabinet to be of the same construction as my existing cupboards so that they all look like they were born and raised together. Fortunately, I have paint that matches my other cabinets because I painted them a couple of years ago. (See previous post, “Yes You Can Paint Your Oak Kitchen Cabinets“) Here’s my empty space.

 How to Build a Simple Kitchen Cabinet for Open Display / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

 How to Build a Simple Kitchen Cabinet for Open Display / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

I decide to make my cabinet 1/2” smaller than the wall. Since my wall space is 15″, I decide to make the cabinet 14.5” wide. (As you can see, I’m a whizz at math.) I make it deep enough to hold the bowls and plates I’m itching to display.

 How to Build a Simple Kitchen Cabinet for Open Display / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

First, I study how my existing cupboard is constructed. I can make it look identical, even though I’m not going to router the grooves for the back piece of the cabinet to slide into. No one will ever know it’s not made the same way. I won’t tell if you won’t.

Here are my materials. The 1 x 2’s are to form a back frame, and to trim out the front of the finished cabinet. The 1 x 8’s are for the sides and the shelves, and a scrap of bead board (not pictured) that I have left over from another project will form the back of the cabinet. I also use finishing nails that I already have on hand.

Note that my 1 x 8’s have knots and other imperfections in them. I buy lesser grades of wood for projects like this, and durabond over the knots and any other dings or imperfections so that it’ll be a nice, smooth finish when I’m done.

How to Build a Simple Kitchen Cabinet for Open Display / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

I would like to take this opportunity to show off my new saw horses that my son, Brandon, got me for Christmas. I love my saw horses. Space at my house is limited, so I love that they fold up so tiny and store in a very small space. They’re also adjustable with the flip of a bracket. Thanks, Brandon–I love you even more than my sawhorses!

 How to Build a Simple Kitchen Cabinet for Open Display / HomeStagingBloomingtonILg

 How to Build a Simple Kitchen Cabinet for Open Display / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

So step one is to build a simple frame out of the 1 x 2’s as you can see in the center of the picture. I just used easy, peasy butt joints.

 How to Build a Simple Kitchen Cabinet for Open Display / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

This frame is what I use to fasten the sides, top and bottom to in order to construct the actual cabinet. I simply hold up the 1 x 8’s against the sides of the frame, and nail them on with finishing nails. I use bar clamps since I’m doing this by myself, but a spouse, neighbor or other human being could hold the boards while you hammer if you promise not to hit their fingers. I also have done this without the bar clamps, so don’t let it discourage you if you don’t own any. I use wood glue so it’ll be a bit more sturdy, and so I can feel like a “real” carpenter. I measure so that the height of this cabinet is exactly the same as the height of my current ones – 42″.

 How to Build a Simple Kitchen Cabinet for Open Display / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

The 1 x 2 frame is also what the bead board plywood will rest on, and it’s what I drill through in order to attach the cabinet to the wall. Now what I have is this box with no back or front.

 How to Build a Simple Kitchen Cabinet for Open Display / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

 How to Build a Simple Kitchen Cabinet for Open Display / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

Next I measure my bead board plywood, cut it to size and drop it down into the box so that it rests on the 1 x 2 frame. I only loosely tack it in since the shelves will eventually butt up against it to hold it in place.

 How to Build a Simple Kitchen Cabinet for Open Display / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

The next step is to decide where I want my shelves. I decide to make them permanent, and place them so that they fit the items I want to display. I want wine on the top shelf, and I decide how I want my dishes to stack on the remaining shelves. This cabinet will be located right above my dishwasher, so it’ll be nice to have so close when putting my dishes away.

 How to Build a Simple Kitchen Cabinet for Open Display / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

How to Build a Simple Kitchen Cabinet for Open Display / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

 How to Build a Simple Kitchen Cabinet for Open Display / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

I use a speed square, running it in both directions to make sure my shelves are exactly level front to back and side to side.

 How to Build a Simple Kitchen Cabinet for Open Display / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

I tack in all the shelves without pounding the nails in all the way to be sure everything’s where it needs to be before I commit. Once everything looks peachy, I pound away. If you’ve read my other posts, you know I’m not gifted in the use of a hammer, so I pre-drill all my holes. (If there were a “Hammering For Dummies” book, I’d buy it.) It’s especially beneficial here to pre-drill, so the shelves don’t jump around while I’m hammering since they need to be perfectly level. Then I counter-sink my nails with a punch.

How to Build a Simple Kitchen Cabinet for Open Display / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

Next comes the 1 x 2 frame that sits on the face of the cabinet. This covers up the cracks where the shelves meet the side panels, and just gives the cabinet a more finished look. And more importantly, this is how my other cabinets are made.

How to Build a Simple Kitchen Cabinet for Open Display / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

 How to Build a Simple Kitchen Cabinet for Open Display / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

Here’s how it looks now. Front, side and back views. I must admit I surprised myself with the sturdiness of this cabinet. When you have the sides, top, bottom and the shelves all holding it together, it makes for a pretty solid piece of awesomeness. (Looks like someone needs to clean out their garage.)

 How to Build a Simple Kitchen Cabinet for Open Display / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

 How to Build a Simple Kitchen Cabinet for Open Display / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

 How to Build a Simple Kitchen Cabinet for Open Display / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

Next I caulk all the cracks–every last one. That is, anywhere one board meets another. It looks much more professional when there are no cracks showing. If you don’t have visible cracks, it means all your cuts are precise (or that’s what we want people to believe). Now is also when I skim over the knots, dings and nail holes with durabond. You could use spackle as well. Sorry I got carried away, and didn’t take a picture of the patch job over the knots and dings. You’ll have to use your imagination.

 How to Build a Simple Kitchen Cabinet for Open Display / HomeStagingBloomingtonILg

 How to Build a Simple Kitchen Cabinet for Open Display / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

Here’s my shelf primed, painted and installed, but not quite finished.

 How to Build a Simple Kitchen Cabinet for Open Display / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

After living with my new cabinet for a week or so, I decide the side view is pretty boring so I buy trim, cut my 45’s and add some interest. It looks a little less home-made now. Much better!

 How to Build a Simple Kitchen Cabinet for Open Display / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

Before fabulous trim–

How to Build a Simple Kitchen Cabinet for Open Display / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

After fabulous trim–

 How to Build a Simple Kitchen Cabinet for Open Display / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

Here’s the bar code from the trim I bought from Menards.

 How to Build a Simple Kitchen Cabinet for Open Display / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

Here’s my new open cabinet!

 How to Build a Simple Kitchen Cabinet for Open Display / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

This project cost me $27. Keep in mind that I already had nails, bead board, caulk, paint and primer. Here are some before and after photos.

Before–

 How to Build a Simple Kitchen Cabinet for Open Display / HomeStagingBloomingtonILg

After–

 How to Build a Simple Kitchen Cabinet for Open Display / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

Before

 How to Build a Simple Kitchen Cabinet for Open Display / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

After

 How to Build a Simple Kitchen Cabinet for Open Display / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL
How to Build a Simple Kitchen Cabinet for Open Display / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL
How to Build a Simple Kitchen Cabinet for Open Display / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

 How to Build a Simple Kitchen Cabinet for Open Display / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

How to Build a Simple Kitchen Cabinet for Open Display / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

I love my new cabinet so much! When you have a kitchen with limited storage, adding a cabinet like this one, even though it’s not huge, makes a significant difference. Plus it’s just so darn cute! So of course when my friend, Rachael and I went to garage sales today, I bought a few more dishes–just because I could.

If you’re looking for other ways to add storage to your kitchen, visit my posts, “DIY Rolling Pantry Tucks Into Space by Fridge“, “Creative Kitchen Storage for Pot Lids” and “Organize My Kitchen Pantry With What?!“.

This post was written by Tracy Evans who is a Certified Home Stager, Certified Redesigner and Journeyman Painter servicing the Central Illinois area. Feel free to visit her website at www.HelpAtHomeStaging.com to view her portfolio for more before and after pictures of her projects. And if you enjoy gardening, you may want to visit her gardening blog at MyUrbanGardenOasis.

Budget-Friendly Spruce Ups for Your Fireplace and Kitchen Peninsula

Greetings, fellow DIYer’s. I’ve got a bad case of the winter blah’s here in Central Illinois where today the forecast is for up to seven inches of snow. The best way I know to un-blah myself is to do a home improvement project. I’ve been wanting to spruce up both my kitchen peninsula, and my fireplace for a while now, and today’s the day.

This project is short and sweet, and is pretty DIY-friendly. It requires simple tools, and not much in the way of skill. Perfect for me! I’ve seen many pictures on the internet where beadboard is added to kitchen islands and peninsulas, and I love, love, love how that looks, but I already added beadboard to my cabinet fronts, and want something different. I also love the beautiful, chunky, ornate corbels and fluted trim that dress up many of them, but grand “ornateness” doesn’t fit my house. So I ultimately decide on a simple wallframe to take both my fireplace and my peninsula out of builder grade status.

I installed wallframe wainscoting in an adjoining dining space and foyer (See previous post, “Wall Frame Wainscoting and the Importance of Architectural Details“, and I thought it would tie the two areas together nicely. I’ll only be posting about the peninsula re-do, but I will post before and after pics of the fireplace at the end of this post.

So as you can see from my before photos, my peninsula is currently my wall color.

 Budget-Friendly Spruce Ups for Your Fireplace and Kitchen Peninsula / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

 Budget-Friendly Spruce Ups for Your Fireplace and Kitchen Peninsula / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

I painted my kitchen cabinets white last winter (previous post), and ever since, I’ve wished my peninsula was white to match.

So step one of this project is to patch any imperfections in the wall first so we’re starting with a nice, smooth surface.

Here’s a picture of the spackle I’m using…or not.

 Budget-Friendly Spruce Ups for Your Fireplace and Kitchen Peninsula / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

It’s shrink-free spackle from Sherwin Williams, and unfortunately, mine is frozen after spending too much time in the trunk of my car. So important tip number one, don’t let your spackle freeze. Looks like I’ll be using drywall mud instead. At any rate, the best way to patch the area is to shine a light sideways onto the wall so that imperfections show up easily.

 Budget-Friendly Spruce Ups for Your Fireplace and Kitchen Peninsula / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

Once the patches dry, I sand them smooth. I find I have to repatch some of them because my mud shrunk since some holes are too big to fill with one application. Although this next photo looks like an “innie” belly button, it’s actually a photo showing a patched hole where the spackle shrunk when it dried.

 Budget-Friendly Spruce Ups for Your Fireplace and Kitchen Peninsula / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

If you don’t take a few minutes to re-patch something like that, people will wonder why you have an innie on your wall, and tell you to patch that nasty thing. I usually make it a habit to overfill the hole just a bit, and then sand it down flat.

Here’s a helpful patching tip. If I have drywall protruding from where I removed a nail from the wall, I take the handle end of my putty knife and push the drywall back in where its pulled out so that I create a divot, and then spackle it. After all, we can’t patch a hole that’s not a hole, now can we? Anytime a nail is pulled out of drywall it’s going to pull some of the drywall out with it, and it’ll leave a bump that you can feel if you run your finger over it. I use the “divot technique” to fix these. Here’s a picture of what it looks like after I’ve pushed the drywall back in to patch the hole. Now when I fill my divot with mud, I’ll get a much better result after it’s sanded again.

Budget-Friendly Spruce Ups for Your Fireplace and Kitchen Peninsula / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

 Budget-Friendly Spruce Ups for Your Fireplace and Kitchen Peninsula / HomeStagingBloomingtonILg

Here we are all patched up!

 Budget-Friendly Spruce Ups for Your Fireplace and Kitchen Peninsula / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

After I sand all the patches smooth, I prime the whole area with white primer since my wall is going to end up with white finish paint on it. Sort of ugly with just primer but that’s ok. If you try to take the cheap and easy way out, and don’t prime over your spackled areas, you’ll be sorry because they’ll show through your finish paint. Trust me.

 Budget-Friendly Spruce Ups for Your Fireplace and Kitchen Peninsula / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

After the primer dries, I put on my first coat of finish paint. I put one coat of paint on before putting up the wallframe because painting around the trim isn’t all that fun. Why do it twice and be frustrated two times when I only have to be frustrated once? I’m using Sherwin Williams ProMar 200 in an egshell finish in the color Pure White. We’re looking better now!

 Budget-Friendly Spruce Ups for Your Fireplace and Kitchen Peninsula / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

Now it’s time for the wallframe. I purchased my trim at Menard’s at a price of $3.99 each for two 8′ pieces. My fireplace that I’ll show later, also took two pieces of trim. So both projects together cost me $16.00. (I already had the paint, spackle, nails, etc…)

I have a power miter saw, but since I only have a few cuts to make, I decide to bring my miter box inside so I can cut the boards in my nice, warm house instead of my subzero garage. Incidentally, my miter box was purchased at a garage sale for a few dollars, and was still in the box. Score! They’re not that expensive to buy new if you want to invest in one, and they make nice, clean cuts. If you’re a DIYer, I’m guessing you already have one. If you’re a DIYer-wanna-be, go get yourself one! I promise you’ll use it again.

I put up a “pretend” frame made of tape first so I can decide exactly where I want my frame to go. I make sure my paint is nice and dry so my tape doesn’t pull the paint off the wall. Also, no need to press the tape down all the way. I just lightly tacked it up for a visual. When I remove my tape, I always pull it off by pulling it sideways against itself as opposed to pulling it directly towards me perpendicular to the wall. That also helps in not pulling my new paint off the wall.

 Budget-Friendly Spruce Ups for Your Fireplace and Kitchen Peninsula / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

Now that I’ve got my measurements, I cut my trim to size at 45 degree angles, being sure to cut opposing pieces at exactly the same length so my frame will be perfectly square. I pre-drill holes into my trim where I want to put my nails, since I’m not all that great with a hammer. It also helps to have a hole at least partially drilled ahead of time so my nail will hold itself in the wood. This frees up my fingers to hold the trim, a level and a hammer.

 Budget-Friendly Spruce Ups for Your Fireplace and Kitchen Peninsula / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

 Budget-Friendly Spruce Ups for Your Fireplace and Kitchen Peninsula / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

I make one tiny dot with a pencil, not a pen where I want to put the end of my trim piece. Since I’m using a level, there’s no need to draw any lines. I tack up my top piece. Yet another helpful tip–never use a pen on a wall that’s to be painted because it will manage to successfully bleed through a ridiculous number of coats of paint. Or you’ll have to buy a primer that’s specially formulated to stop ink bleed-through. If you have small children, you may already be knowledgeable in this area.

Budget-Friendly Spruce Ups for Your Fireplace and Kitchen Peninsula / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

I don’t drive my finish nails in all the way until all four pieces of trim are in place, just in case something isn’t quite right. That way, if I need to remove my trim for some reason, I won’t damage it during removal.

I use nails that just barely go through my trim, and into the drywall because I know I have water pipes running through this wall. My plumber’s a great guy and all, but I’m not wanting to see him today. I use 3d Finish Bright 1 1/4 inch trim nails.

 Budget-Friendly Spruce Ups for Your Fireplace and Kitchen Peninsula / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

There is no need to nail the trim into a stud because after the trim pieces are nailed up, I will be caulking around them, and the caulk will help secure the pieces to the wall. There’s no need to glue the pieces before nailing for this reason also.

Next the two side pieces go up using only one nail in the center of each piece in the beginning so I can still move the pieces back and forth on the tops and bottoms. Even though the trim will be moveable, I make sure it’s plumb before tacking it up. I’ll secure the ends of the side pieces after the bottom piece has been tacked up.

 Budget-Friendly Spruce Ups for Your Fireplace and Kitchen Peninsula / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

Now for the bottom piece. Again, tacking the side pieces up in the centers only allows me to make slight adjustments at the corners while adding the bottom piece. I can now tack in the four ends of the side pieces.

 Budget-Friendly Spruce Ups for Your Fireplace and Kitchen Peninsula / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

 Budget-Friendly Spruce Ups for Your Fireplace and Kitchen Peninsula / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

I stand back, and take one final look to make sure everything is up to snuff before I drive my nails in all the way. I use a punch to sink the nail heads below the surface of the trim. Good heavens, my hands look like man hands! Goes with the DIY territory, I suppose.

 Budget-Friendly Spruce Ups for Your Fireplace and Kitchen Peninsula / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

Next, I putty all my holes, being sure to overfill them a bit. It looks like I’m just being sloppy, but it really is a better result if I overfill, and then sand down the spackle rather than to try to get it too smooth initially.

Budget-Friendly Spruce Ups for Your Fireplace and Kitchen Peninsula / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

I sand the puttied areas, and then prime over them with my primer–not finish paint–so they won’t show thru the paint. If you skip the step of priming over the spackled holes, you’ll regret it on a sunny day. You’ll see a different sheen where you spackled, and you’ll say to yourself, “Gee, I should have listened to that lady who wrote that post.”

Now it’s time to caulk around all sides of the trim. (For a more detailed explanation on how to caulk trim, please refer to my post on wallframe wainscoting–click here.)

Budget-Friendly Spruce Ups for Your Fireplace and Kitchen Peninsula / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

I also caulk where my corners meet, even if they appear to be snug. Caulking the corners is messy, and if you’re a dude with big fingers, you can use a wet cotton swab or rag to remove excess caulk from the grooves on the trim.

Budget-Friendly Spruce Ups for Your Fireplace and Kitchen Peninsula / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

Caulking everything takes your project from, “Did you do that yourself?” to “Wow, who did you hire to custom trim your gorgeous peninsula?” OK, maybe not, but it does make a huge difference. Check out my progression photos of the corner joints before, during and after caulking.

 Budget-Friendly Spruce Ups for Your Fireplace and Kitchen Peninsula / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL
Budget-Friendly Spruce Ups for Your Fireplace and Kitchen Peninsula / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL
 Budget-Friendly Spruce Ups for Your Fireplace and Kitchen Peninsula / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

Once the caulk has dried, it’s time to put on the final coat of paint. I start with the trim itself, then move quickly to the inside of the box. I use a brush on the trim, and then a small roller on the inside of the box. I work quickly so that I roll over my brush marks that lap onto the wall before they dry. Then I paint the wall surrounding the box. And there you have it!

 Budget-Friendly Spruce Ups for Your Fireplace and Kitchen Peninsula / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

It’s my life’s mission to rid my house of all things builder basic. Giving my peninsula and my fireplace a little boost adds a bit of personality, and it’s nice to know everything in my house isn’t just like my neighbor’s. Here are my before and afters of both my peninsula and my fireplace which were both done using the same technique.

 Budget-Friendly Spruce Ups for Your Fireplace and Kitchen Peninsula / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

 Budget-Friendly Spruce Ups for Your Fireplace and Kitchen Peninsula / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

Budget-Friendly Spruce Ups for Your Fireplace and Kitchen Peninsula / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

 Budget-Friendly Spruce Ups for Your Fireplace and Kitchen Peninsula / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

 Budget-Friendly Spruce Ups for Your Fireplace and Kitchen Peninsula / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

Budget-Friendly Spruce Ups for Your Fireplace and Kitchen Peninsula / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

 Budget-Friendly Spruce Ups for Your Fireplace and Kitchen Peninsula / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

 Budget-Friendly Spruce Ups for Your Fireplace and Kitchen Peninsula / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

 Budget-Friendly Spruce Ups for Your Fireplace and Kitchen Peninsula / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

And here’s my fireplace. The added wallframes on the sides just make it a little more prominent, and a little more interesting.

Budget-Friendly Spruce Ups for Your Fireplace and Kitchen Peninsula / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

Budget-Friendly Spruce Ups for Your Fireplace and Kitchen Peninsula / HomeStagingBloomingtonIL

I’m trying to find the time to complete my foyer area by running wallframes up my stairs. The challenge on that project will be the funky angles I’ll have to cut. Stay tuned!

This post was written by Tracy Evans who is a Certified Home Stager, Certified Redesigner and Journeyman Painter servicing the Central Illinois area. Feel free to visit her website at www.HelpAtHomeStaging.com to view her portfolio for more before and after pictures of her projects. And if you enjoy gardening, you may want to visit her gardening blog at MyUrbanGardenOasis.